Consejos de Viaje: Buenos Aires

4 días de viaje desde 4 Septiembre 2010 hasta 7 Septiembre 2010 celebrada durante el invierno.

Vuelo de Brasil saliendo el sábado a las 8:00 am con llegada estimada en Buenos Aires a las 11:00 (hora local) por Aerolíneas Gol. La tasa de embarque de la Argentina (US 29,00) ya está pagado, junto con el billete de avión.

La llegada es en el Aeropuerto Internacional de Ezeiza, que se encuentra a 35 km de la capital.
Después de hacer compras libres y recoger su equipaje, debe hacer cambio de divisas en el interior Banco de la Nación Argentina, que tiene el mejor tipo de cambio.
Después de eso, ir a la oficina de Manuel Tienda León y comprar un boleto para el albergue (AR$ 50,00 por persona). Hay un autobús que lleva usted a un terminal en Retiro y, allí, hay furgonetas que distribuyen las personas en toda la capital, separados por zonas.
Si está en un grupo y su tiempo es valioso, la división de valor de un taxi por AR$ 120,00 es mucho más rápido y más cómodo.

El albergue del viaje fue Hostel Tango, ubicado en la calle Chacabuco 747, San Telmo. Bien situado, cerca de la feria de artesanías en San Telmo, a pocas cuadras de la Plaza de Mayo, y se mantengan muy cerca de Puerto Madero, también. Hay restaurantes, boliches, mercados, y una estación de metro al lado.
El albergue cuenta con dormitorios y habitaciones privadas con baño para solteros o parejas. Las habitaciones son limpias, algunas recientemente reformado, dispone de calefacción, agua caliente y otro calentador en el baño. Toallas de baño, de tocador y del piso se puede solicitar en la recepción. Hay una cocina compartida y una sala de estar. El Internet es gratuita, pero los equipos están siempre ocupados.

Una opción es el albergue Hostel Suites Florida, uno de los albergues más buscados de Buenos Aires. Si usted desea permanecer allí, hacer sus reservas con mucha antelación. El albergue tiene una buena apariencia externa, tiene un restaurante en el que las distintas partes y las salidas se promueven, y está situado en el corazón de Buenos Aires.

Para llegar a La Boca del Hostel Tango, se puede tomar un taxi que cuesta solo AR$ 15,00. Te recomiendo ir a La Boca en un día que no haya un partido de Boca Juniors. Comprar boletos al llegar es imposible y, por lo tanto, no hay manera de entrar en el estadio.


Después de visitar el estadio, que cuesta AR$ 40,00 por persona para visitar, caminar a pie hasta el Caminito y la experiencia la belleza cultural de esta región. Disfrute comiendo dulces deliciosos en Panadería San Nicolás.



Otra cosa que se puede hacer y ahorrar algo de dinero es quedarse sentado en los restaurantes con una presentación de tango, donde se puede beber un vino en un buen precio y, al mismo tiempo, escuchar a los músicos tocando a su lado un real Tango Porteño y milongas, con los bailarines bailando con toda la emoción de la música.
Recomendo La Barrica, que tiene un ambiente agradable en interiores, buen servicio y músicos muy atentos, que preguntan su origen y tocan un tango de su elección. Vinos desde AR$ 30.00.


Si quieres hacer compras, hay tiendas de souvenirs en Caminito que venden mucho más barato que en los lugares turísticos, y estas tiendas aceptan tarjetas de crédito.
La tienda El Aguante está en la calle Olavarría, 551.

Por la noche, llegar temprano a cenar a Siga la Vaca en Puerto Madero. La cena cuesta AR$ 83,00 por persona e incluye: aperitivo, plato principal, bebida y postre. Muy digno de él! Usted puede ir caminando desde el albergue, por la Avenida Independencia, pasa por el lado de la Facultad de Ingeniería, entre dos avenidas más y voilà!

Hay numerosas opciones de restaurantes en Puerto Madero. Junto a la Siga la Vaca hay uno llamado Fredy, que ha parrillada para dos personas por AR$ 150,00 y hay una botella de vino incluida.
Después de comer, pasear por Puerto Madero y disfrutar de las vistas del río, con la Puente de la Mujer en el fondo. El puente de estilo se basa en una pareja que baila tango, donde el mástil vertical indica que es un hombre, y la parte horizontal significa que la mujer está en poder de sus brazos.


Un buen lugar para divertirse en Puerto Madero es Asia de Cuba, bien conocido entre los brasileños y porteños. Llegue temprano, la línea suele ir a la esquina de la cuadra.

En el segundo día, despertar y seguir recto en la feria de San Telmo, que son alrededor de cuatro cuadras del albergue. Más temprano, pasar a una panadería en la avenida Independencia. Esta región de San Telmo está lleno de lugares para visitar.
Por la Avenida Independencia, entrando en la calle Defensa le dirigirá en Plaza Dorrego.
Las calles están llenas de vendedores ambulantes y artistas locales. Todas las tiendas están abiertas y hay turistas, la mayoría actualmente son brasileños, en todas partes.
Vale la pena hacer una visita a las tiendas de antigüedades, aunque sus propietarios no permiten tomar fotografías en el interior. En esta feria, también se puede ver un show de tango en el centro de la calle. Clima interesante.


Junto a la Plaza Dorrego, se coloca la Iglesia de San Pedro Telmo, que está abierto al público y lleva a las masas por lo general los domingos.

Si quieres ir de compras, ropa de cuero muy barato se puede encontrar en el Almacén Cueros, que el propietario es atento y amable caballero llamado Julio. La galería está ubicada junto a la Plaza Dorrego, en la calle Defensa, 1066. La tienda Almacén de Cueros está en loc 1 y 2. La ropa de cuero son más baratas aquí que en la Florida. En la misma galería se pueden comprar bellos ponchos en Asís Regionales, loc 23.
No se olvide de tener un delicioso helado de dulce de leche en Freddo.
Por medio de la calle en la que pueden comprar los imanes, tazas, ropa, placas y muchas otras artesanías.
Si usted tiene la huelga de hambre, hay algunas opciones para comer allí. Si desea guardar, caminar hasta MacDonald's en frente de la Facultad de Ingeniería, Paseo Colón. De lo contrario, si usted quiere pasar, se puede visitar el famoso El Viejo Almacén, ubicado en la Independencia con la calle Balcarce.

Después de comer, puede desplazarse a través de la Defensa para el otro lado, pasando por un sinnúmero de vendedores ambulantes (los libros de la calle que están bien vale la pena comprar) hasta llegar a la Plaza de Mayo.



Recuerde, las visitas guiadas al interior de la Casa Rosada sólo ocurren los fines de semana. Y son libres. Y puede tomar varias fotos.
Al llegar a Plaza de Mayo, se puede ver la Casa Rosada, el Banco de la Nación Argentina, el Cabildo y la Catedral Metropolitana.
Dentro de la Casa Rosada puedes ver algunas de las habitaciones reunión, el jardín interior, la misma habitación de lujo del actual presidente.
Por debajo de la Casa Rosada, hay el Museo de la Casa Rosada.




Después de la visita de la Casa Rosada, se puede ir caminando a Catedral Metropolitana.

También en la región, dando un paseo de 1 km (15 minutos), se puede cruzar la Plaza de la República, tomar algunas fotos en Obelisco , y cruzar la la Avenida 9 de Julio haste el Teatro Colón, donde se puede ver un espectáculo de conciertos o de ballet. Los boletos deben ser comprados por adelantado. Si llegas justo a tiempo se corre el riesgo serio de encontrar la taquilla cerrada.



Después del espectáculo, de vuelta a pie por 1 km y contará con un delicioso chocolate caliente con churros en Café Tortoni, un desayuno tradicional de Bs As que fue frecuentado por artistas y políticos en el pasado. Espectáculos de tango también se presentan en el Tortoni. Los boletos deben comprarse con antelación.

Si usted todavía tiene tiempo, la calle Florida se sus tiendas abiertas hasta las 20:00 horas. En dos cuadras del Tortoni se contrae y se puede ver la calle muy transitada. A juzgar por el final de la calle, llegando en el monumento del Libertador San Martín, a la derecha y caminar dos cuadras para llegar a la Kilkenny Pub Irlandés, un bar bullicioso de la ciudad que tiene happy hour de 12:00 a 19:00 horas. En el barrio de Retiro hay varios bares y restaurantes. Disfruta de comer, en frente de Kilkenny, en un restaurante llamado El Salmón.

Tome un taxi y volver al hostal para descansar y conocer los lugares a donde ir en la noche.
Si todavía tienes hambre, delante del albergue, hay un restaurante que vende varios sabores de empanadas a AR$ 3.00 cada uno.
A sugerencia de la noche es el Uniclub, ubicado en Nuevo Circuito Abasto.

Super cansado después de un día, el tercer día es más relajado. Tome un Subte en la estación de la Independencia, la tarifa es de AR$ 1,10, e ir a la estación Plaza Italia.
Abajo de la estación, justo en frente se encuentra el Zoo de Buenos Aires. La entrada es de AR$ 22,00 y el recorrido es bastante suave.
Saliendo del zoológico al lado, se puede caminar dentro del Jardín Botánico. La entrada es gratuita y hay muchas hermosas plantas y flores en su interior.
En la misma región es la Jardín Japonés, detrás del zoológico, y está lleno de actividades culturales y de salud.


Después de esas dos visitas verde, ir a pie las calles de Palermo y comer dulces en Panadería. El barrio es una delicia pasear y tranquilo y diferente de las bulliciosas calles de la ciudad.
Pare en un bar a tomar una cerveza Quilmes deliciosa y fría.
Disfrute de las calles de Palermo para encontrar algunas bodegas agradable y coger muchas etiquetas, según lo recomendado por la sommelier Amanda Loyo en su artículo.
Los sábados y domingos en la Plaza Cortázar, hay un feria urbana frecuentado por turistas y porteños.

Después de caminar y unas cuantas botellas de vino, tomar un taxi hasta la Recoleta y la primera parada en MALBA - Museo de Arte Latinoamericana de Buenos Aires, donde se puede ver obras de grandes artistas latinoamericanos, como Frida Kahlo y Tarsila do Amaral, entre otros. El MALBA es en la Avenida Presidente Figueroa Alcorta.

Poner fin a la visita y continuando en la misma calle, un paseo de 1 km que lleva a la Floralis Genérica, una obra muy interesante de arte. Aluminio fue donado por Lockheed Martin y la ejecución fue del artista Eduardo Catalano. Todos los días a las 8:00 de la flor se abre, y durante todo el año y dependiendo de la temporada, se cierra de forma aleatoria. En caso de fuerte viento también cierra, debido a sus mecanismos de protección. Enfrente de la genérico Floraris existe el Museo de Bellas Artes de Buenos Aires, que contiene obras de artistas de renombre del mundo.

Detrás de las Bellas Artes es el Centro de Buenos Aires Design y el Cementerio de la Recoleta.
En frente al cementerio, hay varios bares y restaurantes con sillas y protectores contra el sol a lo largo del paseo marítimo. La Clark almorzar o cenar por AR$ 46,00 (entrada + plato principal + postre). Pida la carne de vacio, que es una carne alta y suave.
Freddo tiene una heladería en el paseo también.

Tome un taxi a la Plaza San Martín y coger el principio de la calle Florida. Disfrute el resto del día para ir de compras. Tiendas Falabella (wholesale), Johnson (ropa) y Musimundo (música y electrónica) son ideales para encontrar gangas.
Disfrute en el Habana Cafe para comer un alfajor y una bebida de café.

Por la noche, la zona de Palermo Hollywood, cuenta con varios restaurantes con música en vivo. Recomiendo Velma Café.

En el cuarto día, usted puede optar por recorrer el Delta del Tigre (o Delta del Paraná) , que es de 28 km de Buenos Aires, o conocer el Zoológico de Luján. Ambos tomar casi un día entero.

Para llegar al Delta del Tigre Yo recomiendo tomar la Tren de la Costa en la estación de Maipú, que es un tren turístico que bordea el Río de la Plata y que pasa por diversos lugares hermosos.
Para coger el tren, a partir de la estación central de Retiro en Buenos Aires, usted debe bajar en la estación de Bartolomé Mitre y la cruz de la estación de Maipú.
Durante el viaje en tren a Tigre, hay varios lugares para visitar fuera de las estaciones.

Para llegar al Zoo de Luján usted debe tomar el tren y luego retirarse a la ciudad de Luján. El viaje dura entre 1:40 y 2:00 horas.

De regreso a Buenos Aires, ir de compras en un mercado como final:
- Dulce de leche (es decir: Sancor)
- Vinos (Uxmal, Trumpeter, Norton y Finca Perdriel)
- Galletas
- Alfajores

Hay una tienda de vinos de un bloque antes de que el albergue llamado Rufino. El servicio es muy bueno y que promueven degustaciones. La dirección es calle Chacabuco con Chile, San Telmo. El número de teléfono es +54 11 4362 2592.

Taxi al aeropuerto cuesta alrededor de AR$ 100,00 y dura 40 minutos, de lo contrario se deben programar con un horario diario de que le da Manuel Tienda León van a recoger en el albergue. El precio es el mismo aeropuerto: AR$ 50,00.
Hay un servicio de transporte desde el albergue hasta el aeropuerto llamado Hostel Shuttle, recogendo AR$ 45,00 por persona.

El vuelo de regreso sale de Buenos Aires a las 20:00 y llega a Sao Paulo a las 22:40 por Aerolíneas Gol.

Consejos de baladas: Agenda de Salidas Vuenos Airez
Mapa del Subté: Subté Argentina
Ciudad Taxi: +54 11 4585 5544

Buen viaje!

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Trip Tips: Bogotá

4 day trip from 03/06/2010 to 06/06/2010 held in the fall.

The photos were taken in a conventional camera and then Escaned. The quality is not good, but you can get a sense of beauty.

Flight from Brazil on Thursday at 12.30 with estimated arrival at Bogotá at 19.50 (local time) by Gol Airlines. The Colombian boarding fee (U$ 33.00) is already paid along with the air ticket.

Arriving at the airport El Dorado, go through immigration, to be sniffed by police dogs and then exchange their currencies into one of four exchange houses that exist in the outside. At the airport the exchange is much more advantageous than in downtown Bogotá.
After exchanging the currency on the left before leaving the airport building there is a branch of esBogotá tourist information that can provide a detailed map of Bogota and La Candelaria, the historic center.
Take a taxi to the convening Cranky Croc Hostel, located on Calle 15 with Carrera 4. The taxi is for approximately $ 10.00 and you know how much you pay before you get on.

It is important to understand how the division of streets and avenues in Bogota to get your bearings. There is a hill called Monserrate which is on the east side of town. Avenues (carreras) are numbered from east to west starting from the hill, so that the carrera is the first one after the hill. The calles (streets) are numbered in vertical direction. Another important thing to know is that the houses have two numbers: the first of which always indicates carrera, or calle it is closer and the second indicates the number actually in the house or building.

The Cranky Croc hostel is owned by two Australian brothers and is very well maintained. It has a friendly staff, rooms with beds and new mattresses, new bed linen and clean, lockers (locks are sold there for $ 2.60, but you can take your) shared bathrooms with hot water, internet area, big and clean kitchen with several appliances, video room, a bar for smokers.
Rates in dorm cost about U$10.00 and they do not accept credit cards.
They sell snacks, beer Aguila, Club Colombia and wines at reasonable prices. The site is very well located for those wanting to walk the streets of Bogota. At night there are bars and discos nearby, which are frequented by locals or tourists from the hostels of the region.
Nearby there are museums, pharmacies, markets and shopping malls.

Enjoy the first night to meet the guys staying at the hostel, that before to go out stay in the hostel bar to warm up.
The Thursday in Bogota is the best day to dance rumba. There are some nightclubs near the hostel of rumba: Quiebra-Canto and others who do not remember.
The Bogota love to dance and usually call people who do not know to dance along with them.

I want to leave a note here: I decided my trip to Colombia in the early hours of Wednesday (02/06/10) to Thursday (06/03/2010). As the flight was at 12.30, woke up early and went into a site to search for backpacker hostels. The first post I found that the hostel spoke Platypus was the best hostel in Bogota. There was no doubt, got in touch directly with the hostel and made a reservation for every day. For those who do not have to stay in the hostel Bogota Platypus is an option. But as attributes of the hostel must say I was somewhat frustrated:
- First I was dryly answered by staff (assuming that the Colombian people are friendly, helpful and loves the people of Brazil) and thought it an offense
- The room that I did not have lockers to store my backpack
- The bathroom of the room, although private, had no hot shower and cold water is very cold there
- Above the dormitory was another bedroom, and ceiling/floor was wood, so that every time someone walked by a room upstairs unbearable noise was heard in the room below.
I supported to stay in this hostel to take the first bath. At the same time searched and found the Cranky Croc and spoke with the owner so that I could change. He said he would have bedrooms the next day, but I said I wanted to move in that hour (it was night). Moved without too much trouble and then there was the hosting super quiet and nice.

If you do not prepare their own breakfast in the hostel, walk through the center of Bogota and meet some bakeries and cafes that serve delicious snacks morning. Near the hostel there are also some supermarkets. Go to any market and make purchases. Cranky Croc's cuisine is very organized.

On Friday morning, make sure you know the Museo del Oro, Museo de la Esmeralda , Museo del Cobre and the Museo de Fernando Botero.
The museum shows a shower of gold pieces from BC to the present day, showing that the techniques they use to cook up the gold pieces. The Museum of emerald and copper are similar to gold, but in smaller proportions.
The entrance to the museum of gold costs U$ 1.50, but on Saturdays you can visit for free.
If you want to buy handicrafts, there is a cultural fair opposite the Gold Museum. There you can buy books, cds and crafts. I found the new edition of Cien Años de Soledad with little use and the price of U$ 8.00. A very popular handicrafts are the thumbnails of the hand or horse artist Fernando Botero.
Near the museum is the chapel of gold, golden San Francisco de Asis. The chapel is beautiful and worth the visit.

The museum Botero, a Colombian artist known for gaining weight all his works, is a delight to visit. Right away you'll find a dark hand and fat, with almost 2 feet tall. Entering the first room on the right you already see one of the most interesting works: chubby Monalisa. Throughout the rooms you will already realizing the fuller features of the artist. The museum also has works by artists like Picasso and Renoir.
The museum entrance and Botero Mint is free.
Annex to the Botero Museum is Casa de la Moneda, which has a museum of numismatics. Also quite interesting to see what was happening with the bills and coins of Colombia (Gran Colombia and) over time.
Leaving the building and in front you can visit the largest bookstore in Colombia: The Cultural Center Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Nobel Prize for literature. There are several titles in castellano and a section devoted to the author. The latest edition of Cien Años de Soledad can be purchased for approximately U$ 15.00. If you enjoy literature castellano is possible to buy securities of the Chilean Pablo Neruda or the Uruguayan Eduardo Galeano.

Have lunch at a typical Colombian dish: Ajiaco Santafereño, a soup made with chicken, different varieties of potatoes, corn and Guasco, which usually adds cream and capers. It is delicious and kills the hunger of anyone. It costs something around U$ 6.00 dish that even with rice and a piece of avocado! The recommended restaurant is one that is opposite the Argentine Mi Viejo on the same street as the Casa de la Moneda.

Also in the center and walking a few blocks you can get to Plaza Bolivar. There are Capitolio Nacional, Primada Cathedral of Bogota, Palacio de Justicia, Alcaldia Mayor (Palacio Liévano) and behind the Capitol is a beautiful garden and Nariño Palace (seat of government). Prepare to have your purse investigated every time you cross a checkpoint, which is heavily armed.


After these visits, walking down carrera 7 are heading north you can visit the Plaza de Toros Santamaria (map), where for a few months of the year there are bullfights. From January to March occur bullfighting professionals. From July to August for aspiring bullfights occur. The site is impressive. If you're indoors, try contacting the guard and offer a commission of U$ 3.00. It will let you in to take some pictures and try to imagine how is the weather in a day's bullfight. The museum is not accessible.
After visiting the bullfighting stadium, walk a little further north on the cross 6 and visit the Museo Nacional de Colombia, which contains an archive of the history of education in Colombia.


Completing these visits, return to the central region of Bogota without commitment and go to the Juan Valdez coffee, near the Casa de la Moneda and enjoy the most popular and tasty Colombian coffee.

Returning to the hostel, enjoy a warm shower and relax a little bit. At this point your legs may be very tired.
At night, start the heats at the bar's own hostel and then go to the T Zone, a region within the Zona Rosa, with numerous bars, restaurants and discos. There are options where clubs do not pay the entry and other paid. The paid are frequented by people in a most beautiful and well dressed. You can have fun in any of them. Suggestions are Spin, Colombian music with electronics, or the Blessed's, a ballad more bourgeois where attendants take a the night and climb on the tables to dance to electronic music loud and contagious. Accept credit card but the entry is "en effective."

On Saturday take time to know the most famous breakfast, traditional and elegant in Bogota, which is in carrera 7: hot chocolate with bread, cheese and butter. The bakery is called Pastry Florida and its owner wins customers since 1936. The bakery is part of the city's history. By asking the pan y chocolate do not forget to ask for a little warm bread.

After breakfast, go walk down Calle 20 with Carrera 2, near the Cerro Monserrate. Climbing the hill on the right side you will find the Casa Museo Quinta de Bolivar, at the time who lived in Colombia . The house has its own style and is very comfortable, especially the dining room, which during the day under the sun has a very pleasant and inviting. Admission is U$ 1.00.
Going up a little more you can reach the base of Monserrate hill. On Saturdays you can climb on foot. If it is not a Saturday or you're out of gas, there is a funicular cable car and they charge U$ 7.00 round trip. The view from up there is beautiful and it is possible to identify several landmarks of Bogota. There is a chapel on top of the hill, which celebrates Mass regularly. Beside the chapel there are some restaurants and a fair of crafts.



Ending the visit take a Transmilenio with the direction of the T Zone and have lunch there.
The T zone is a region very conducive to shopping. There are several shoe stores, shoes, clothing, leather and electronics. Another area that can be visited for shopping is the outlet of the Avenue of the Americas. And if you want to bring back a little to Brazil from Colombia, do not forget to buy the Antioqueño brandy, which has a value around U$ 10.00, and Juan Valdez coffee, which can be found in several flavors in packages that cost U$ 5.00.

At night, the lineup is great. Even many people say: "who goes to Bogota and not knowing the Andrés Carne de Res did not go to Bogota". There are two options: the oldest and most traditional in the city of Chia (a taxi there costs U$ 93.00), and the latest version Bogotá. The place is a mixture of restaurant, circus and ballad at the same time.

On Sunday, if you do not have to go back to the hostel to check out at noon, leave everything ready and already paid for and request that your luggage is left in the storage alberque, is safe and lock that only the owner handles.
In the morning, if the day is sunny, rent a bike and go ride the carrera 7. The only avenue is closed to cyclists. A lease is for U$ 13.00 in Biketours and they also offer guided tours.


The tamale is a kind of cornmeal, salt or fresh, and may contain meat, cheese, peppers among others. Wrapped in straw own ear of corn or banana leaves, steamed.
Prove it! If you find a restaurant that offers.

After the bike ride, take a Transmilenio season's Museo del Oro to the Avenida Jimenez. Make and take another baudeação Transmilenio toward the North Terminal. Lasts around 40 minutes to an hour the whole operation and costs U$ 1.00. Get off at North Terminal and look for where to catch a bus from Zipaquirá. Ask where to get off the conductor closest to Salt Cathedral. The trip lasts more than 40 minutes and costs U$ 2.00. It is interesting because the way you cut almost entirely from downtown Bogota to the north, and crossing the town of Chia, where the meat of Res Andrés Coming to Zipaquirá if you have not had lunch and tasted delicious tamale, find a restaurant it serves. Then walk a few blocks until you reach the park entrance to the Cathedral. Climb the stairs and buy the ticket. You can choose to only visit the Cathedral through the Via Crucis, but also opt for the ride known as the Ruta del Minero, a curious experience on farms in the mine, where you can understand how the engineering behind it. You will receive a helmet with a very powerful flashlight, and in some moments, you are invited to turn off the flashlight to see the darkness of the cave. The tour of the cathedral lasted around one hour and Route Miner 30 minutes and both cost U$ 11.50. Accept credit cards.


Ending the tour take the bus back to the North Terminal of Bogota and then the Transmilenio back to the hostel.
Get your stuff, take your last beer Colombia (Aguila, Club Colombia, or Costanera) and ask to call a taxi. If in a hurry you can ask the cabbie to run a lot. He will be grateful to receive a 10% tip for the effort. The taxi from the airport to the hostel gives U$ 10.00 and takes no more than 20 minutes to the freeway.

Time to go back to Brazil. Check-in and go to the desk in Colombia to register your exit in your passport.
If you have leftover money to past purchases, the free shopping airport has several shops, handicrafts, T-shirts and beverage in Colombia.

Very useful: map of the stations of Transmilenio.

Bon voyage!

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Trip Tips: Margarita and Coche Islands

This was the first post about travel tips: Margarita and Coche Islands, in the Venezuelan Caribbean. The main motivation of the posts that I intend to do about traveling is the difficulty that has been concentrated to find completeness of information on the Internet about backpack travels. Usually you can find few information of packages on tour operators web sites.
I would note, however, that although the trips are planned in the low cost style, I try to request minimum quality standards, such as comfort and hygiene. When not meet those minimum standards, I promise that I will comment on what it isn't worth.

First of all: you do not need visa to travel as a tourist for short periods in Venezuela, you need to have a valid passport for at least six months. The official rate is 2.15 Bolivares Fuertes (BSF) for every $ 1 (U.S.). Upon arrival at the international airport in Maiquetia Simon Bolivar, which is in a neighboring city of Caracas (Venezuela's federal capital), there are since luggage carriers to taxi drivers offering to exchange up to 5 BsF for each 1 U.S., which makes the exchange to be interesting for anyone who travels with cash. But I do not know if this type of transaction is safe and is legal, nor tried to make official exchange outside of houses. If you insist on such exchange, other blogs on the Internet have recommended to be careful in two things: the first is not to be wandering at the airport after making exchange, the other is to be careful when doing the exchange, because the parallel exchange is prohibited in Venezuela.

I also read a lot about the insecurity in Caracas, which has a homicide rate higher than Sao Paulo (Brazil). I have found nothing very attractive in terms of tourism in the capital. If your domestic flight is not just after your international arrival in Maiquetia, choose to wait in the domestic departure lounge. There is a walk between the international and domestic arrivals, as if you were to make direct connection to a domestic flight, even if you have not done the check-in. You can wait there until the hour of your domestic check-in, when you need to leave the departure lounge and go outside to do the check-in on the board of chosen airline. There are several companies that make the route Caracas-Porlamar Laser, AeroPostal, Rutaca and Conviasa are some of which I have requested prices. All of them sell over the Internet with a credit card. The cheapest I found at that time was the Laser, which sold for BsF 255.00 each way. The domestic check-in in Venezuela must be made two hours before departure, while the international check-in must be done three hours earlier. These recommendations are are found at Airport.
There are airport charges which are paid for boarding domestic and international boarding and are based on a government index. When I traveled, the rate domestic and international cost BsF 27.50 BsF 137.50. You can find the value of these fees on the main page of Maiquetia airport.

The following trip itinerary is for six days and five nights, and it is only a basis for the traveler, who can adapt it according to his planning.

The first day was the flight from Sao Paulo to Caracas, which lasts about six hours by Gol/Varig. The flight leaves Sao Paulo at 11:00 and arrives in Caracas at 15h:30 (local time). Arriving in Caracas, as had been unable to buy a ticket to Porlamar on the same day, I called the hotel Muevete por Vargas, which has service van to the airport and I spent the night there, paying few BsF the night. The hotel is very comfortable, the room is very clean, has cable TV, air conditioning and hot water, with daily BsF 310.00 non-negotiable and the van service already included. I dined in the hotel's own restaurant and decided to eat a Venezuelan parrilla, that definitely not looks like the Argentine parrilla, it looks much more like a plate of yakissoba. It was having dinner that day I had the opportunity to take the first time the best beer in Venezuela: Green Solera, a beer tasting strong, with 6% alcoholic graduation, with a can of reduced volume compared to those sold in Brazil (222 ml only). As I really like Heineken, Carlsberg and Stella Artois, the beer brand made me love it instantly and I diddn't drink other brand throughout the rest of the trip.

On the second day, very early, I woke up, took the hotel van and returned to the airport, I did the check-in on the balcony of the Laser, which has staff polite and helpful, and took the flight to Porlamar. The sight of the arrival is beautiful, and can be compared to the arrival of Fernando Noronha, but Margarita is infinitely greater than Noronha.

I made reservations at a hostel called Las Trinitarias, located in El Cardón, northeast of Margarita. For a hostel listed on Hostelling International, Las Trinitarias is very good. The rooms are huge (about 40m2), overlooking a mountain next to the shelters, air conditioning, hot water, cable television (where later I was able to watch the game Sport Recife against LDU by the Libertadores da América tournament), a small pool (why need a swimming pool if you're in the Caribbean?) and breakfast is included in room rates, which costs BsF 172.00. The landlady, a nice Caraqueña lady called Janeth, make transfers from the airport to the hostel and only charges BsF 36.00, half the amount that a normal taxi would charge up El Cardón. On arrival, make sure you do have a historical walk through the streets of Asuncion, capital of the island, and get rid of this kind of ride for the rest of the trip, since who is going to the Caribbean with the intention of enjoying the beach, sun and sea. In this historical tour, you can visit the castle of Santa Rosa, the political center of Margarita, some of their churches and houses full of stories.

After this quick tour, arriving at the hotel, already got to go walk along the beaches closest to the hostel: El Cardón, Los Tiranos, El Parguito, El Água, and finally see the sunset on the beach El Manzanillo. In El Parguito and El Água there are several food stalls, where you can rent a tent (20 BsF paid for one) and get to eat a goldfish done on time. From El Água to Manzanillo is better to go by bus, which costs BsF 1,00 per person.
I have got the phone of few taxi drivers who have negotiated attractive prices for tours on the island. Car rent is also an excellent choice if you want to do longer rides (El Yaque, peninsula beaches of Macanao, the mangroves of La Restinga).
The sunset in Manzanillo really is very beautiful to see, mainly because there is nobody on that beach, only local fishermen. Recommended see the sunset on Juan Griego, but I don't think is a beautiful beach, and the sea is infected. I have no suggestions for night clubs or wonderful dinners, because usually at night I was tired and did not want to go that far.





On the third day is a great option to go for the beautiful beaches of the North: Puerto Cruz, La Galera, El Caribe and Juan Griego. The owner of the hostel had given me a small cooler to accompany me during the daily walks. I went to the supermarket, I made a huge stock of Soleras, which I stored them in a refrigerator of the restaurant of the hostel, in front of the building of the rooms, and bought enough ice to every morning prepare it for the cooler daily departures. At the end of the day never even one was left. La Galera is a beach with few people and few waves. EL Caribe is the most beautiful beach, with several tents and one option is to stay in the tent that I forgot the name, where you can eat a delicious paella made from scratch and the value of BsF 40.00. If you negotiate, since they will eat a paella, the owner of the place can get rid of the rent of the awning. Latin music plays at this restaurant all the time, including the successes of the Brazilian axé early 90s. In the evening a dinner option is a restaurant of a British hostel next to Trinitarias, which is in the seaside of El Cardón. They sell a steak sandwich which is great taste and enormous. Later that night I returned to the hotel to watch the victory of the Sport 2 x 0 LDU on the Copa Libertadores da América.



On the fourth day the option was to call a neighboring island Coche. Leave early to go to Playa El Yaque, which is adjacent to the airport and one hour from El Cardón. From there you can catch a catamaran for the price of BsF 25.00 each way to go to the island of Coche. The journey is pretty quick and you can enjoy the view of the arrival on the island, and see firsthand that pelicans will fly very close to the catamaran.
In Coche, which has a very white sand and crystal clear water, you can stay all day strolling through beautiful and unspoiled beaches or sitting in a tent taking a sun and enjoying the sea.
There are boat rides where you can snorkel and eat fresh oysters. This tour can also be done in Los Frailes, a small island that lies in the northeast of Margarita and the fishermen of El Tirano usually offer this type of ride.
In Coche, I made the boat ride paying BsF 25.00. The ride is very good, the boat goes up to 2km from the beach and stops at a sort of natural pool, where you can snorkel and enjoy the local species: many colorful fish and sea stars. After snorkeling, it's time to take pictures with sea stars, and then get on the boat to eat super fresh oysters, with a little lemon and a Polar beer offered by the boatman.
After a day in Coche, returning to El Yaque, there are several restaurants along the beach. El Yaque is a beach known for windsurfing and there you can rent equipment to practice the sport.



On the fifth day, I was planning to rent a car and drive to the beach Punta Arenas, located across the island, peninsula Macanao, but to rent the car I should return it the next day after the flight schedule, so it was impossible . Redesigning the trip, I went again to the beach Manzanillo to know a deserted beach and little frequented by tourists: La Propria. Go to Manzanillo, talk to a fisherman so he can make the leading leg and confirm a return time previously. The value that the fisherman charges is nothing more than BsF 50.00. A good choice is already negotiate with one restaurant the menu of the lunch and negotiate the loan of a tilt to bring La Propria, as in the case of a deserted beach, there aren't stalls offering drinks and awnings. One suggestion is to eat in the restaurant Dona Mindismar, who prepares a sensational lobster, served with wine Sauvignon Blanc Gato Negro. The value of the lunch is not more than BsF 150.00.
The beach La Propria is super small, surrounded by mountains and rocks on all sides, has crystal clear water and is inaccessible by land, there can only be reached by boat.
In return of Manzanillo, I recommend taking the taxi driver Alex, who takes you to the hostel, waiting for you to shower and change, then takes you to the Sambil, a shopping center of Margarita, and combines a time to catch you and take you in Sambil back to the hostel. Before returning to the hostel still stopped at the supermarket to buy chocolates that are delicious in Venezuela. The taxi driver charged only BsF 60.00 throughout this stretch.
The Sambil Mall is ideal for shopping for perfumes, electronics, wine and anything else that imported in Brazil is much more expensive, because Margarita is duty-free port. I bought wine Frontera Concha y Toro for a measly US$ 4.00. Take the opportunity to spend the rest of your dollars, because everything is very cheap even. Do not forget to save the only BsF 27.50 (domestic) and BsF 137.50 (international) airport fees, because they do not accept credit cards. An extra fee of BsF 18.00 was charged by VARIG counter as the difference in rates, as had been adjusted.
At night it's time to get things back to Brazil.



On the sixth day I took the flight from Caracas to Margarita Caracas and then to Brazil. At the airport in Caracas have no lockers, so you can't leave your luggage and try to risk a ride through the city of Caracas. As I traveled with suitcases and still did the Sambil shopping, I chose to sit for the flight back to Brazil at the same airport. Another thing you can't do is check-in early because the VARIG balcon only opens exactly three hours before the flight.
End of travel is a great option for last minute shopping in the International Duty Free, which sells chocolate El Rey with various concentrations of Venezuelan cocoa, rum and whatever you would like to buy during the trip, but it is much better buy than there have to be carrying during the journey.

I could have stayed another day and have enjoyed some of the rides that was in debt: dive or snorkel at Los Frailes; know the La Restinga Mangrove; know the beach Punta Arenas and La Pared; and possibly catch a flight and know the fantastic island of Los Roques.

So that's it! If you want more details I can provide, just get in touch by sending a comment, then comes the advise in my email.
The expensive is just the air ticket to Caracas. From Caracas to Margarita I bought online, but if you want to get the risk, it is much cheaper to shop there on time, because there are flights all the time to there and in several companies.

Hug and good luck!

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Trip Tips: Buenos Aires

4 days trip from September 4th, 2010 to September 7th,2010 held during the winter.

Flight from Brazil leaving on saturday at 8:00 am with estimated arrival in Buenos Aires at 11:00 am (local time) by Gol Airlines. The boarding fee of Argentina (US$ 29.00) is already paid along with the airfare.

The arrival is at Ezeiza International Airport, which is 35 km from the capital.
After making free shop and pick up your luggages, exchange currency on the internal Banco la Nación Argentina , which has the best exchange rate.
After that, go to the desk of Manuel Tienda León and buy a ticket to the hostel (AR$ 50.00 per person). There is a bus that takes you to a terminal in Retiro and, there, there are vans that distribute people throughout the capital, separated by areas.
If you're in a group and your time is valuable, worth splitting a taxi for AR $ 120.00 and is much faster and more comfortable.

The hostel of the trip was Hostel Tango, located on calle Chacabuco 747, San Telmo. Well located, close to the crafts fair in San Telmo and a few blocks from the Plaza de Mayo, and stay very close to Puerto Madero, too. There are restaurants, boliches, markets, and a subway station next door.
The hostel has dorms and private rooms with bath for singles or couples. The rooms are clean, some recently renovated, has heating, hot water and other heater in the bathroom. Face, bath and floor towels can be requested at reception. There is a shared kitchen and a living room. The internet is free but the computers are always busy.

One option is the hostel Hostel Suites Florida, one of the most disputed hostels of Bs As. If you want to stay there, make your reservations well in advance. The hostel has good external appearance, has a restaurant in which various parties and outings are promoted, and is located in the heart of Buenos Aires.

To get to La Boca from the hostel, you can take a taxi which costs only AR$ 15.00. I recommend you going to La Boca on a day that has not a game of Boca Juniors. To buy tickets when arriving is impossible and therefore there is no way to enter the stadium.


After visiting the stadium, which costs AR$ 40.00 per person to visit, walk up the Caminito and experience the cultural beauty of this region. Enjoy eating delicious candy at Panaderia San Nicolas.



Another thing that can be done and save some money is sitting in restaurants with a presentation of tango, where you can drink a wine at a good price and, at the same time, listen to musicians playing beside you a real tango Porteño and milongas , with the dancers dancing with all the emotion of music.
I recommend you La Barrica , which has a pleasant indoor environment, good service and very attentive musicians, who ask your origin and play a tango of your choice. Wines from AR$ 30.00.


If you want to shop, there are shops out of Caminito selling souvenirs much cheaper than in tourist places, and these shops take credit cards.
The store El Aguante is in calle Olavarria, 551.

At night, arrive early for dinner at Siga la Vaca at Puerto Madero. The dinner costs AR$ 83.00 per person and includes: appetizers, main dish, beverage and dessert. Very worth it! You can go there walking from the hostel, down Independence Avenue, go through the side of the Facultad de Ingenieria, cross two more avenues and voilà!

There are numerous choices of restaurants in Puerto Madero. Beside the Siga la Vaca there is one called Fredy, which has parrillada for two people for AR$ 150.00 with a bottle of wine included.
After eating, stroll through Puerto Madero and enjoy the view of the river, with the Puente de la Mujer on the background. The bridge style is based on a couple dancing tango, where the vertical mast means a man, and the horizontal part means the woman being held by his arms.


A good place to have fun in Puerto Madero is Asia de Cuba, well known among Brazilians and porteños. Arrive early, the line usually goes to the corner of the block.

On the second day, wake up and go straight in the fair in San Telmo, which are about 4 blocks from the hostel. Earlier, pass at one panaderia on Independencia Avenue. This region of San Telmo is full of places to visit.
By Independence Avenue, entering the calle Defensa will direct you on Plaza Dorrego.
The streets are filled with street vendors and local artists. All shops are open and there are tourists, currently most are Brazilians, everywhere.
It is worth making a visit to the antique shops, although their owners do not allow taking pictures inside. In this fair, you can also see a tango show in the middle of the street. Climate interesting.


Next to Plaza Dorrego, it is placed the church of San Pedro Telmo, which is open to the public and carries masses usually Sundays.

If you want to shop, very cheap leather clothing can be found at the Almacen Cueros, that the owner is attentive and friendly gentleman named Júlio. The gallery is located next to Plaza Dorrego, in the calle Defensa, 1066. The tienda Almacén of Cueros is on loc 1 and 2. The leather clothes are cheaper here than in Florida. In the same gallery is possible to buy beautiful ponchos in Asís Regionales, loc 23.
Do not forget to have a delicious dulce de leche ice cream in Freddo.
By the middle of the street you can purchase magnets, mugs, clothing, plaques and many other crafts.
If you have the hunger strike there are some options to eat there. If you want to save, run at MacDonald's in front of the Facultad de Ingeniería, Paseo Colón, otherwise, if you want to spend, you can visit the famous El Viejo Almacen, located in Independence with calle Balcarce.

After eating, you can scroll through the Defense to the other side, passing by countless hawkers (street books that are well worth buying) until you reach the Plaza de Mayo.



Remember, the guided tours to the interior of the Casa Rosada only happen on weekends. And they are free. And it may take several photos.
Arriving at Plaza de Mayo , you can see the Casa Rosada, the Banco de la Nacion Argentina the Cabildo and the Catedral Metropolitana.
Inside the Casa Rosada you can see some rooms meeting, the inner garden, the very luxurious room of current President.
Below the Casa Rosada, there is the Museo de la Casa Rosada .




After the Casa Rosada visit, you can go walking to Metropolitan Cathedral.

Also in the region, giving a 1 km walk (15 minutes), you can cross the Plaza de la República, take some pictures in Obelisco , and cross the Avenida 9 de Julio for the Teatro Colón, where you can watch a concert or ballet spectacle. Tickets must be purchased in advance. If you arrive just in time you run the serious risk of finding the ticket office closed.



After the show, back walking for 1 km and will have a delicious hot chocolate with churros at Cafe Tortoni , a traditional breakfast of Bs As which was frequented by artists and politicians in the past. Tango shows are also presented in Tortoni. Tickets must be purchased well in advance.

If you still have time, the Calle Florida gets their shops open until 8:00 pm. In two blocks from the Tortoni you get it and can see the busy street. Going by the end of the street, arriving at the monument del Libertador San Martin, take a right and walk two blocks to get to the Kilkenny Irish Pub, a bustling pub of the city that has happy hours from 12:00 to 19:00. In the Retiro neighborhood there are several bars and restaurants. Enjoy eating, in front of Kilkenny, in a restaurant called El Salmon.

Take a taxi and go back to the hostel to rest and know the places to go at night.
If you're still hungry, in front of the hostel there is a restaurant that sells various flavors of empanadas to AR$ 3.00 each.
A suggestion to the night is the Uniclub, located in Nuevo Circuito Abasto.

Super tiring after a day, the third day is more relaxed. Take a subté (subway) station in Independence, the fare is AR$ 1.10, and go to the station Plaza Italia.
Down the station, right in front you will find the Buenos Aires zoo. Admission is AR$ 22.00 and the ride is pretty smooth.
Leaving the zoo next door, you can walk inside the Botanical Garden. Admission is free and there are many beautiful plants and flowers inside.
In the same region is the Japanese Garden, behind the zoo, and is full of cultural activities and health.


After those two green visits, go walk the streets of Palermo and eating candys in Panaderia. The neighborhood is a delight to walk and quiet and different from the bustling streets of downtown.
Stop at a bar to take a delicious and cold Quilmes beer.
Enjoy the streets of Palermo to find some nice wineries and bringing many labels, as recommended by sommelierAmanda Loyo in her article.
On Saturdays and Sundays at Plaza Cortazár, there is a urban fair frequented by tourists and porteños.

After hiking and a few bottles of wine, grab a taxi to Recoleta and stop first at MALBA - Museo de Arte Latinoamericana de Buenos Aires, where you can watch works of great Latin American artists such as Frida Kahlo and Tarsila do Amaral, among others. The MALBA is on Avenida Presidente Figueroa Alcorta.

Ending the visit and continuing in the same street, a 1 km walk takes you to the Floralis Generica, a very interesting work of art. Aluminium was donated by Lockheed Martin and the execution was of the artist Eduardo Catalano. Every day at 8:00 am the flower opens, and throughout the year and depending on the season, it closes at random. In case of strong wind it also closes, because of its protection mechanisms. Opposite is the Floraris Generic there is the Museo de Bellas Artes in Buenos Aires, which contains works by renowned artists from world.

Behind the Bellas Artes is the Buenos Aires Design Center and the Recoleta Cemetery.
In front of the cemetery, there are several bars and restaurants with chairs and sun shields along the boardwalk. The Clark's have lunch or dinner for AR$ 46.00 (entry + main dish + dessert). Try vacio meat, which is a high and soft flesh.
Freddo has an ice cream parlor on the boardwalk too.

Take a taxi to Plaza San Martín and catch the very beginning of the Calle Florida. Enjoy the rest of the day for shopping. Stores Falabella (wholesale), Johnson (clothes) and Musimundo (music and electronics) are great for finding bargains.
Enjoy for a Havanna Cafe and eat a alfajor and drink a coffee.

At night, the Palermo Hollywood area has several restaurants with live music. I recommend Velma Café.

On the fourth day, you can choose to tour the Delta del Tigre (or Delta Paraná), which is 28 km from Buenos Aires, or know the Zoo Lujan. Both take almost a whole day.

To get to the Delta del Tigre I recommend taking the Tren de la Costa at Maipú station, which is a tourist train bordering the River Plate and passing through various beautiful places.
To catch the train, starting from the central station Retiro in Buenos Aires, you should get off at Bartolomé Mitre station and cross to the station Maipu.
During the train ride to Tigre, there are several places to meet out the stations.

To get to the Zoo Lujan you should take train and then retreat to the town of Luján. The trip lasts between 1:40 am and 2:00 am.

Returning to Buenos Aires, go shopping in a market as final:
- Dulce de leche (i.e.: Sancor)
- Wines (Uxmal, Trumpeter, Norton and Finca Perdriel)
- Biscuits
- Alfajores

There is a wine shop a block before the hostel called Ruffino. The service is very good and they promote tastings. The address is calle Chacabuco in Chile, San Telmo. The phone number there is +54 11 4362 2592.

Taxi to airport costs around AR$ 100.00 and takes 40 minutes, otherwise it should be scheduled with a day-ahead schedule that gives Manuel Tienda León van will pick up at the hostel. The price is the same airport: AR$ 50.00.
There is a van service from the hostel to the airport called Hostel Shuttle collecting AR$ 45.00 per person.

The return flight leaves Buenos Aires at 8:00 pm and arrives in Sao Paulo at 10:40 pm, by Gol Airlines.

Tips ballads: Agenda de Salidas Vuenos Airez
Subway map: Subté Argentina
Taxi City: +54 11 4585 5544

Have a nice trip!

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